Sunday August 2nd
Left Caplin at 7am, heading south, taking the inland passage. Steve took the time to record the depths as we left Caplin Bay as this is not recorded on any chart but a few depths on the hand drawn one in the CCA Guide (which we hope to update). A turn south, and we entered the narrow channel of Squasho Run. The “run” is a mostly deep (50m+) channel that is bounded by shear rock walls on either side. It is wider the Petite Rigolet channel on the PQ shore, but still narrow and majestic. There is a story that a cruise ship ventured down it and that is why all the rocks are marked with buoys (lots). It would be a spectacular cruise.
On the way, we diverted into Hawke Harbour, an abandoned whaling factory with 2 shipwrecks. The harbour offered natural shelter for the fishing fleets, and the rusted, collapsed remains of the processing plant are still on the shore. It was worth the diversion and a reminder of the history that surrounds us.
We were headed to a bay called Lord Arm – another fjord that was written up in the book. We arrived at noonish, and while the bay looked good from a shelter perspective, it took several tries before we were satisfied that the anchor was firmly set in mud as it had skidded across rock the first 2 tries. Surrounded by rock, trees and abandoned Dorys and houses, it had a mystical feel. It was a quiet night with the only the Loons for company.
August 3rd
The forecast was (again) for very strong winds overnight, but this time with a major change in direction. It appeared that a major low pressure cell was going to pass right over top of us in the evening, so we needed a sheltered harbour with enough depth to set a solid anchor and enough swing room for protection from winds through the 200 degree swing. It is actually more challenging than it sounds, but we settled on Occasional Harbour, about 20 nm south of our position. As we motored out of the bay and into the Labrador Sea, we found ourselves back into dense fog and rolling waves of the open water. Visibility was limited to roughly a few hundred metres, but thankfully we were offshore ~0.5-1.0nm. The fishing boats were out since its Cod season. Saw big trawlers (60+’) with the poles out for nets, the 20’ open Dories and the occasional fella out in his 15’ dory jigging at a shoal. It’s the little ones without AIS that we had to keep a lookout for. Steve put out the line to follow the boat (trawl), but when going 5-6kts the lure it doesn’t sink enough – no bites even when we slowed down. Only saw Puffins – they either have bad hearing and/or eyesight as they are the last birds to be aware of our presence and they were close to us before they would “skitter” away. Since we were not in a rush (it was only 20nm to the next spot), Ali diverted back inland (“took a left”) and we went through the Square Island ‘Tickle’, narrow passage between the island and the shore. Thankfully the fog lifted and shoreline came into view. There were lots of pretty homes in the eastern bay in Square Harbour. We also sailed by the famous “Hole in the Wall” of St.Micheal’s Cape. The massive rock of Labrador makes me want to paint! And I am not a painter! Camera does not do it justice!
We entered Occassional Harbour (a long,narrow bay), glad to be heading inland for warmth, flat seas and to shelter from the forecasted 2 days of circling, strong winds. Arriving by noon allowed us to take advantage of the clearing skies and to dinghy to a nearby waterfall, to enjoy a ‘shower’ of fresh water – yes, it was cold (~15C) but not as cold as the Labrador Sea (9C) and fresh water is a treat. Thought we might be able to fill up our 2x20L water jugs there but we google searched “giardia” and, yes, it is in Labrador. So we kept our mouths shut as we showered!
A dinghy around the bay revealed a family of Yellowleg Sandpipers, Eider ducks and a beautiful Hawk… but that is all. Rain expected tomorrow so decided to try the ‘No-Knead’ bread recipe and left it to rise for the morning.
August 4th
It turned out that all of our weather preparations were for naught, as the forecasted storm blew itself out before getting to us. It was still rainy and windy, but the winds were lighter than forecast and shifted later. The rain lasted most of the day. Since boat bound we finished our books, made bread and lentil soup…and feasted! The problem with cloudy/rainy days is no solar power to recharge the batteries. Thankfully, we have minimal power pull (frig+freezer= 8 amps),have LED lighting and can use our USB lights. Late evening it stopped raining and the sunset was glorious, bugs were minimal, fish were jumping. Steve got out his fishing rod and Voila!…a fish!
Admittedly, we have both been feeling ‘out-of-sorts’ despite having so much to be thankful for. We truly appreciate where we are. So why the lack of elation? The decision to turn south was good one, but still disappointing. We will be seeing those places in Labrador we skipped over on the way north. Perhaps it is that this is our first cruise where we have time with no definitive end date or routing. We are adapting. The other adaptation is understanding how important the connection to family is. Starlink is not just for weather! What’s so beautiful is that our grandson recognizes us on the screen… and he is only 9 months old.
August 5th
Overcast and light wind, but not to be deterred, we went hiking. Can’t help but share our ‘flora’ pics with you – apologies! But the colours are amazing and the moss is 10 inches deep – you sink into the ground with every step! We had hoped to enjoy another ‘shower’ in the waterfall, but there was a cold wind and no sun. BBQ’d the fish for lunch! We are looking ahead to weather and planning our stops, taking into account grocery, laundry and shower wants! Also, there is a lot of Newfoundland still to explore and we will be there next week.
August 6th
Once again, into the fog – 37nm to Fox Harbour/St.Lewis (at 6kts/hr=6+hrs). In the CCA guide it indicated all the ‘wants’ were available (water, fuel, showers, laundry…in 2015) and a hiking trail. Not much to say except we were disappointed. Not only was the public dock in disrepair (broken ladders) but no laundry, showers or washroom to be had. As the facility was offloading/shipping cod, the docks by the fish plant were busy which left us on the large “public” dock (constructed like a commercial dock for freighters with black rubber outjuts) and it was in sad repair, with all the ladders broken. Even at high tide, the platform of the dock was 5 feet above the deck of Tikaani making it a challenging climb in or out at low tide. The hiking trail to Deepwater Cove was 2km up past the dump and unpassable half way due to the overgrown stairway and rotten boards. Got some groceries. Quiet night thanks to minimal wind.
August 7th
Steve had the morning job of climbing (he had rigged a ‘climbing rope’ to be the ladder) to untie our lines then jumping 7ft down into the boat. No wind so Tikaani was easy to handle as he did this. We set out dodging fishing buoys/nets – the boats were out working the nets. We heard them leave at 4am. We headed across the Bay (8nm) to Battle Harbour for better facilities. A pod of dolphins came across our bow and stern! Hurrah! So glad to see fins – last time was Edwards Hbr. It was a short 1.5hr motor in sunshine. Arrived at 9:30am! Only boat there.
Battle Harbour is not only an amazing living museum (we visited July 2025), but it has laundry and showers and a restaurant! Yippee…no dishes! Had Moose Pie for lunch and Partridge Berry glazed pork chops for dinner! Hiked around the island – so beautiful. After the disappointment of Fox Harbour, Battle Harbour was a nice way to finish our time in Labrador.
August 8th
We exited the very narrow South Tickle at Battle Harbour at 6am – sunrise! So beautiful! Rolling seas near shore, some north wind. Put up the sails as soon as possible and had a full day downwind sail 60 nm to Griquet, NFLD.
It had been way too long since we had a decent sail, so we were intent to make the best of the favorable winds. The sky was clear, the sea was a gentle 0.5m rollers and the winds were around 15 kts with some occasional gusts…enough to keep Tikanni’s speed 5-6 kts. With sea temperatures around 6 degrees, it was still a cool sail even with the sun – ski jackets worn. A Fin Whale followed us for 5 minutes, curious I guess. Some dolphins off the bow; another sighting they were leaping out of the water about (dolphin happiness?).
Arrived into Griquet, NFLD, at 5pm, good shelter, wharf was empty, local help and knowledge led us to the nearby restaurant for a fish dinner! It is a whale watching launch point so more people than we have been used to… and cars!! A bit of ‘where to next’ and ‘when to haulout’ planning. Quiet night.
August 9th
Oops – better get the Saturday blog post out! (Jeff is monitoring). Fog lifted in the harbour, we called ahead to St.Anthony’s (15nm away). Boat lines off, left at 8am headed south. Fog in the open water, 500m visibility, did not see whales… but they are out there! Cold fog but 3 bars on phone so connected with family en route! Fog horn sounding led us into St.Anthony Harbour and it was good luck that a boat was pulling out of the dock where we wanted to be! We are now beside a beautiful newish Garcia (aluminum boat) from the UK. Will spend a day here then may to head East to Fogo Island (~100nm trip) then meander from there through the north shore cruising grounds. All weather dependent!
Sailing Tikaani 
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