Westward Ho!

Sunday August 30

We sailed through Saturday night arriving in Tadoussac at 5:30am (it was ~24 hours from Quarry Is) in a bank of fog. This is not a harbour to enter in fog and we wanted Kent and Stew to see the iconic lighthouse so we hovered outside, Steve took watch and waited for the fog to lift. With the flow of the Saguenay, depth (300m) and St.Lawrence current it is a special place!

There is a big bay in Tadoussac that we had scouted out in June, so we dropped anchor comfortably close to shore but with swing room as the winds were expected to shift south.

Nap time then Café then walking. Timed it for an early arrival to the Microbrasserie de Tadoussac for lunch on the patio to watch the world go bye… with Tikaani in the background! Beer, Poutine, Marinated Herring and Pizza – yikes – but yummy!

The ‘Tide Mathemetician’ determined we needed to leave at 7pm the next day.

Monday August 31

Café Boheme for brekky, dinghy around the point hoping to bump into the seals but instead found a beautiful beach to walk – and then spot the seals. Seems they are as curious as we are, coming 20 feet from shore. We were all getting antsy to sail, so we pulled up anchor and motored up the Saguenay hoping to spot Beluga’s. WE DID! A half hour up, following a tour boat, we spotted 2 Beluga’s. It is amazing to see them in the wild! But very difficult to get a photo or video…sorry; they would be specs on the pic!

Underway – a Cold night.

Tuesday September 1

It felt like a long journey but Tikaani’s engine purred at 2000rpm; despite battling the current from midnight to 0900, making 1.96kts of boat speed at the very worst of the tide cycle. We made up for those hours when doing 8+kts with the tide.

Kent was our tour guide as we learned about Isle de Grosse’s Irish settler’s immigration experience. We dreamed about a bike tour around Ile d’Orleans, then rounded the corner with freighters, cruise ships and ferries to enter the Locks at Port de Quebec, Bassin Louise. Arrival was 3pm; enough time for showers and an early dinner – gourmet burgers at Chez Victor.

Wednesday September 2

Boat work kept Steve and I occupied while Kent and Stew walked the old town. Met up at Taverne Louise, perfectly situated near the Marina, for an amazing lunch of frites et Tuna Tartare – Tuna from Gaspesie! It’s in an historic building, constructed in 1848, and named after Princess Louise, the daughter of Queen Victoria, who was a significant Patron of the Arts, advocated for higher education and supported the feminist cause while in Canada 1878-1884 as the wife of the Governor General, John Campbell.

Kent and Stew flew home, we continued boat prep. Think we ran them hard, with 4 overnights, but it is a feather in their caps to have done it. No doubt some sleep catch-up is in their plans. They also had to put up with Tikaani for 8 days. Reported highlights were Quarry Is anchorage and whale sightings.

Planned to leave Thursday timing it for ebb tide at Cap Rouge.

Thursday September 3

Called the Lockmaster at 10:30am to request passage. Boats come and go from 0700 to 2400 with the bridge and locks manned then. That morning there was added construction on the south side. We did get away right at 11am and hoped timing was ‘favourable’. The incoming tides are strong and the St.Lawrence current is strong where the river narrows above Quebec City. We managed to maintain 4.5 kts for first few hours, sailed with Genoa going 8.5kts for 2 hours then motored the rest of the way. We considered dropping anchor at dusk around Batiscan, before the squalls came through, but there were already 3 sailboats in the spot and we just wanted to get through this stretch. It’s an active seaway with ships and tugs, and pleasure craft. It narrows substantially so twice we moved out of the way to let the freighters pass at a comfortable distance. But there are some parts of the river that are so shallow, the dredged channel is the only place you want to be. Steve gallantly did most of the driving – Red, Green, Red, Green…etc – buoy after buoy. Squall x1 and rain x 8 hours…not picture time.

Friday September 4

We dropped anchor at 4am in the west end of Lake St.Pierre – a place we had rested on the way out. Seems we are always testing ourselves and Tikaani as we navigated solely by B&G, deck light and flashing lights to communicate the ‘drop’. (no pictures!).

Friday September 5

Daylight confirmed we had landed smack in the middle of the channel – perfect! Calm waters, quiet spot, marshes and birdlife abound. A resting/working day – have bowthruster parts, time to start repairs.

Montreal is within a day’s reach – 48nm!