Labrador

Saturday June 28

It looked like ideal weather, SW wind, for further voyaging north, so at 6am on Saturday morning we left the Port Au Choix with the goal of Red Bay, Labrador, 70nm northwest.  The back-up port would be Flower Bay, Newfoundland, 40nm up the coast.

We had a fantastic sail up the Strait of Belle Isle, with a steady 12-15 kt WSW wind, sailing downwind at a comfortable speed of 7- 9 kt under mostly clear skies. The sea temperature fell from 9C in Port Au Choix to 5.7C in the Strait – we wore our floater suits!  We let some freighters clear southbound and broad reached across the narrowest part of the Strait to Red Bay – winds strengthened to 29-32kn!! And we double reefed the main and didn’t need the genoa as we hit 8 kn. Otto, the trusty Autopilot, could not cope well with these conditions and 2 metre broadside waves, so Ali took control of the helm for the last couple of hours and piloted us into the harbour. It was Sporty end, particularly as a driving rain greeted us in Red Bay!

We got an anchor down behind Saddle Island – took 2 tries to manually drop it right for it to set. We were the only boat in the harbour. We enjoy planning dinner (what’s on board?!) and that night it was Corned Beef Hash à la Steve and a bottle of red wine. Ali proceeded to clobber Steve at “Take Four” , a derivative of scrabble, before we collapsed into our berth.

Red Bay is a UNESCO World Heritage site as it was one of the largest Basque Whaling settlements.  The inner harbour (The Basin) is so littered with wrecks and old gear that they recommend NOT anchoring there or you might have to leave your anchor behind as it gets fouled on stuff on the bottom. As well, there are 2 marked wrecks along Saddle Is.

Sunday, June 29

We woke to a beautiful, calm day with not a cloud in the sky. After completing some basic boat tasks, we launched the dinghy and headed off to hike the local trails – one to the peak and one to Whalebone beach. Beautiful views and ,yes, a beach that is littered with whale vertebrae, ribs, etc. Red Bay is north of the boreal forest so scrubby trees and tundra with glacier scoured rocks, lichens, grasses and small shrubs and tiny wildflowers… all beautiful.

We dinghied back across the harbour to the town (and into a rising wind and chop) and tied up at the only protected dock which is the whale sightseeing tour company. But they made room for us  After a walk through the town and the museum which highlighted the underwater excavation of the Basque Whaling ship, we lunched at Whaler’s restaurant- chowder and Fish&Chips! It was a wet ride back to the boat with the wind and waves filling in. After dinner, we decide our bay was sheltered enough to go ashore and hike Saddle island which is where most of the whale processing took place 200 years ago. They had just completed the guided boardwalk and while the remnants were few, the view was stunning as the sun started setting.

Back in the boat, enjoying a drink in the cockpit, it became obvious that the wind was swinging 90 degrees to the west – not good as the boat got closer to rocks/shore.  After much wringing of hands we decided that we could not risk it – we could end up on the beach overnight.  So, as darkness fell, we hauled up the anchor and moved over to that same dock – the Tour boat was on the inside and we tied up on the outside.  Unfortunately, we were beam to the wind, so we had waves and wind pounding us into the dock for most of the night, plus tide movement up and down. So up in the night adjusting/checking lines and fenders.

Monday June 30

At 6am we set off for Battle Harbour, 56nm. We mainly motor sailed with the 5-9kn SW wind. It was cold, 8C, with mixed rain/sun/fog. You can feel the influence of the arctic currents. As we passed through the narrows of the Strait of Belle Isle we could see both shores, with snow still present on the topsides of some of the mountains in both Nfld and Labrador. Soon after, we spotted our first iceberg! This was the “you’re are not in Kansas anymore/Welcome to Labrador” moment! We sailed by roughly 15 icebergs and as many bergy bits (small bergs) and growlers (mostly submerged smaller ice chunks) getting as close as about 1.5 nm to one.

We arrived in Battle Harbour in the late afternoon, in a cloud burst of heavy, cold rain. It was a narrow entry, following the eNav carefully, keel up. Landed on an easy dock only to be waved over by 2 men running down the dock. So we reversed back into this narrow channel, without a bow thruster, and wind at 15 kn and driving rain, did 2 circles and threw lines and put out lots of fenders!

It is hard to describe Battle Harbour…it is like arriving in a living museum.  In the 1990s the Battle Harbour Trust was formed to preserve the site as it was, in the height of cod fishing, the ‘capitol of Labrador. The Trust have rejuvenated the original industry buildings dating back to the mid 1800’s., while the few townsfolk have maintained the village – the church from the 1700’s. Every building has artifacts of fishing industry, or the island community, displayed and annotated.  The island itself is only 2km long and narrow but the hikes are beautiful, the arctic fox is curious, and the icebergs just off the coast. There is now an Inn with people coming from all over to relive the past. If you ever get the chance to come here, it is a must see.

Thankfully, the docks are new and we were one of the first boats of the season to arrive, soon joined by 3 more before the week was out; one was headed for Greenland, one headed north to the Torngat mountains, and one planning to explore the local bays of Labrador for the summer.

Tuesday, July 1^st – CANADA DAY!

What a treat!… Battle Harbour has a ‘lounge’ – so comfy – and there was live music by a local musician from Mary’s Harbour. I got to play the ‘shoe’, otherwise known as the NFLD ‘Ugly Stick’. It’s a shoe on a long stick with rattly things on it – basically the rhythm section! FUN! Had a Cod dinner and we all sang O’Canada as the white and red cake came out!

We also used our time in Battle Harbour to assess our next port-of-call. Considering that 1. our timetable was shortened due to mechanical issues earlier in the trip, 2. the pack ice was still very far south this year, 3. our windlass already running on bandaids, 4. our reduced maneuverability with the no bow thruster. So, with some disappointment we decided to direct the boat south again to Newfoundland.  Friday’s winds were to be from the north so that was set as our departure date. Our plan is to spend the rest of July exploring the North coast and dedicate August to the Southern Fjords. Labrador will have to wait until next year.

Friday July 3

With a 7am departure, we headed for St. Lunaire Bay, a 50 nm run.  We elected to depart through the Southern Tickle of Battle Harbour which is only 74 feet wide and 12 feet deep in the middle but saved us an hour’s sail. Tickle: a narrow, shallow channel between an island and a mainland – many in NFLD/Labrador. and… yes, that’s an iceberg at the end. Lots of growlers to negotiate!

Thankfully, the winds did circle north (as predicted). The rest of the sail was a smooth, downwind.  Still lots of bergs in site and every time you pass within a nautical mile of one you can feel the air temperature plummet and suddenly see your breath!

We arrived in the northwest arm of St.Lunaire Bay, Northwest arm of NFLD, by mid-afternoon and set a nice long anchor in the Northwest cove and settled in for the night.

Eight Bells

We lost a fellow sailor this week. Kevin McCreadie who was my Boss/Colleague/Mentor and Friend, passed away suddenly on July 2nd. He was an influential role model to me and many others, and we mourn his loss and send our sympathy to his family.

Fair winds and following seas Kevin, you will be missed.